Remains of the Past

This week in my "Mujeres" class (a women's studies class), we watched the video "Las Trece Rosas," or "The 13 Roses."  It is a heart-wrenching  film about 13 women who were arrested after Franco came to power in 1936 because of their leftist political views.  The story of their betrayal, their courage, and the injustice they suffered was thought-proviking and inspirational.  That's all I will say about the plot; if you have time you should check it out! (Be sure to bring a box of Kleenex for the tears, though)

Well, I am embarrassed to admit that I knew very little about Spanish history before arriving in Salamanca last September.  The more time I spend here, the more movies I watch, the more classes I take, and the more people I meet, the more I understand how dramatically Spain has changed in the past few decades.  As I am realizing, it is quite easy to spend a vacation in a country Spain, (or even a year), and not understand the context and history of the country.  After watching this film I want to learn more, hear more stories and read more books about the civil war and decades of dictatorship.  Because the more I learn, the more I understand aspects of this culture.  And that fascinates me, because I come from a country that, in my eyes, has a completely different story and history.

In my various classes this year, we have been taught that over 1 million people died under Franco's regime; that daily life had restrictions; that times were tough economically, especially during the first ten years of the republic when Spain kept its doors shut to the rest of the world.  But to actually SEE it in a film and be able to relate to the characters in the story---that, for some reason, is what really got to me.

And there are still remains of the past: I saw this building in December, but didn't understand the importance until now. It's called Iglesia de San Felipe Neri in Barcelona, a church that had been sprayed with bullets when pro-Franco troops took over the city. 42 people died taking refuge in the church. These are the pictures I took:

This is a monument I have talked about before, of the Franco plaque in the Plaza Mayor, defaced constantly, especially during elections in Spain.  See the purple paint below his image?

And there is this other street sign I pass on my walk home, with the symbol of the Franco regime, an eagle with its wings spread, that is permanently defaced as well.

My point of showing these photos is that we can go forward and live here and party and have a good time, seeing only what we want to see.  But reminders of Spain's past, like these photos I have shown, are evidence of a past that should not be ignored, should not be overlooked, and should not be forgotten.  

What exactly are tapas???

This is what I had to explain to most of my family when they came to visit.  A silly question, I thought to myself.  How can they not understand what tapas are? But then I thought about it: did I know what tapas were before I arrived in Spain?

The answer is no, not really.

So this is a post dedicated to defining what TAPAS really are.

According to wikipedia, tapas are defined as "a wide variety of appetizers, or snacks, in Spanish cuisine.  They may be cold, or warm."   But it's more than that. Why are they so popular, where do they come from?  Well, the word "tapa" comes from the Spanish verb "tapar," meaning "to cover."  Therefore, a tapa was basically a piece of bread or meat meant to cover a glass of wine when it was served.  According to some, tapas began when a Spanish king, ate small snacks and wine to regain his health, liked the practice so much that he required taverns and restaurants to serve a small serving of food whenever they served alcohol.  The practice stuck, and today, Spain is known for their infamous tapas!

In Granada, it's actually required by law that when somebody orders wine or beer they are also given a tapa, for free!  I loved that!

Me?  Well, I usually get tapas around 6-7pm with my friends after class, as a small snack before dinner, and a chance to hang out for a couple hours.  Because in Spain, you can sit down at a bar or restaurant and stay as long as you want; they will never bring you the bill until you ask for it!  Es muy tranquillo.

I should take a step back and explain: in the Spanish culture it isn't common for people to have friends over to their homes.  It's weird.  It would be like asking your friend to come over and use the bathroom with you at the same time.  It's just not something people do here...I mean, I have lived with a family for 6+ months, and I can count on one hand the number of times somebody has come over to their house to visit (and it was always a family member). Instead, people get together in the streets, in restaurants, and in bars.  Especially tapas bars, and especially in the evening.  That's when the city comes alive!  After afternoon siesta, and before a late 9pm dinner.

And how do you tell which restaurant has the best tapas?  By the litter on the floor. If there are piles of dirty, crumpled napkins littering the floor, it is a sign that people like the food there.

Tapas on display

Tapas as a snack, above
Or a tapa meal, below:

So there you have it.  

Right on

So unless you live under a rock, you have probably seen at least on of the "stuff _____ say" videos on youtube or facebook.  I saw this one a few days about about study abroad students, and just wanted to repost it here, on my blog, because it's hilarious! Have definitely said 99% of these lines...enjoy!

That list I probably shouldn't start...

But I'll start it anyway.  This is "The List Of All The Things I am Excited For When I Get Back to America!"

1. Family and friends (duh)
2. Hotdogs with hotdog buns, and ketchup
3. My own room, even though my roommate is awesome!
4. Couches, the comfy kind where you can put your feet up and watch a movie and pass out after a long, stressful day, and eat popcorn and drink soda and feel totally at home
5. My bed, full of fluffy pillows
6. Desks, or a place to do homework (not that I really ever get homework here...)
7. Bathrooms with counter space
8. Driving. Especially with the windows down, music turned up, on warm summer nights
9. Going into a restaurant and asking for a piece of pizza and not having to explain five times what you really want*
10. Cooking...without supervision
11. Affordable, crunchy peanut butter (preferably the Jiff kind)
12. Mac and cheese
13. BAGELS (preferably from the Bagel Market), with cream cheese
14. Whole grain bread
15. Non-European electrical plugs
16. Recycling
17. Eating lunch between the hours of 11:30 am - 1 pm
18. Being messy

If I'm lucky, I can make this jar of heaven last 'til May...

In conclusion, half of the list consists of food related items, the other half, household related things.  Let's just say I am VERY VERY EXCITED to be living on my own next fall!

*It's ironic, I suppose: about a month ago I was having a conversation with an American friend about readjusting to life in the USA after our time here.  I confessed how nervous I was to go back home in anticipation of reverse culture shock.  "Nah," he answered, "(when I was home for Christmas) it was so nice to go into a restaurant and order fries with my meal without having to think twice about it. You will love it, and when the time comes, you will be ready to go back."

This conversation happened 3 weeks ago. At that point, I couldn't imagine going back home. And don't get me wrong: I still enjoy the challenge of speaking Spanish on a daily basis.  However....after seeing my family last week and hearing about life back home, I think I will be ready to pack up and head home when the time comes :)

Oh, I almost forgot: my black lab, Sammy!