A Day in Budapest

Budapest wasn't really a top destination when I arrived in Europe last September. Yet,  I decided to go for a couple reasons: 1) my friend Matt had studied abroad here two years ago, and was always talking about how much he had loved living there. 2) It was  city unlike anywhere else I had ever seen. 3) Flights were cheap!  However....Thanks to poor planning on my part, and a limited selection on the Ryanair website, I spent a mere 24 hours in Budapest to kick off my spring break.  But it was AWESOME, and I cannot wait to go back someday.

The best part of the trip, however, was the plane ride.  Let me explain. On ryanair flights, seats are first-come, first-serve, and nobody is assigned a seat.  About half an hour before the gate opens, everybody lines up and waits.  The goal is to get a seat near the front and a seat close to where you store your bag, making it easier to get off the plane at the next city.  Ok, maybe this has nothing to do with my story.  Let me get back to the point.   I made my way to a window seat, close to the back of the plane.  Oh, well.  Next to me was a friendly Mexican guy, about 30 years old, working in Slovakia.  We discussed the differences between Spain and Mexico, I practiced my Spanish for a while, and we just chatted for a bit.  Tired, I tried sleeping (in anticipation of my busy day to come), but it was impossible. I was too excited to be seeing a new country! Eventually, we engaged in conversation with the man on a aisle, a 32 year old guy from Budapest.  Somehow or another, we started talking about religion.

An American, a Mexican, and a Hungarian are sitting on a plane; it sounds like the start of a bad joke.  But it was quite fascinating, really.  The Mexican, a devout Catholic, whose mother goes to church everyday and grew up in a traditional Catholic-Mexican family, carried with him various keychains representing his faith.  The Hungarian believed life is what we make of it, and did not believe that karma, or God, or spirits had any control over human life.  And then there was me, asking all the questions and throwing in my opinions here or there.  I like to think that I have a very open-minded view about the world; I believe in karma, I believe in a higher being, and I think that organized religion can be a wonderful mechanism if used correctly. When we landed, we said our goodbyes and I politely declined the offer for a ride to my hostel.

Landing around midnight, I was a bit nervous to be in a country where I didn't speak the language, have any friends, or even have any of the currency.  Things worked out, they always do, and I took a taxi to my hostel (a whopping 20 euros! Yikes!), fell asleep by 2am, and woke up at 6am to see as much as I could!  I was greeted by a very friendly Dutchman who encouraged me to check out a few museums, etc, etc, and couldn't believe that I only had the day in Budapest! I know, I told him, I want more time, but this is all I have!!

Liberty Bridge, around 7am

Crossing the Chain Bridge of Budapest

The "Buda" side of the city

St. Stephen's Basilica

Inside St. Stephen's

The Great Market Hall; Központi Vásárcsarnok

With Matt's detailed notes in hand of where to go and what to see, I used my free airport map to loop around the city, go over the bridge to be "Buda" side (there's two sides of the city, "Buda" and "Pest"), taking in the architecture and enjoying the freedom and independence of traveling alone.  My final stop was the market, which I figured I could squeeze in before taking off for the airport.  My incentive?  Matt had described this yogurt lady that he always got delicious yogurt from, who sold fresh, local food. Having not eaten delicious yogurt in a long time, I was set on finding her.  I looked and looked and looked, but couldn't find her!    Frustrated, I gave up and settled for fresh orange juice, then headed back out to try to catch a train to the airport.  I reached my hand into my bag to get out my trusty map, but of course, I had dropped it.  Dang, I though,  I probably shouldn't haven even stopped at the market, and now I don't even know where I am supposed to go!  With only 45 minutes to go before I had to be at my gate, I couldn't find the train station to take me to the airport.  I somehow made my way on a bus with the help of a Hungarian girl, then found a subway, then a train, to get to the airport.  The seconds were ticking, and I was kicking myself for having tried to do so much in so little time.   20 minutes before the gates closed, I ran into the airport, waited in the stupid ryanair line (they insist on stamping your ticket if you do not have an EU passport), then finally got to security.  Literally, there were only 5 people in line ahead of me.  No big deal, I figured, this'll go by quick.  Of course, Budapest ended up being the MOST strict airport security I have EVER experienced, and they made me go back through 2 times before letting me free.  Flustered, I hurried to my gate and whew!; I made it with 4 minutes to spare!  Lesson learned; always give yourself more time then you need.

People have asked me if it's lonely to travel alone, if it's scary or overwhelming or even boring.  Yes; all of this is true. It can be boring to be alone in an airport with nobody to talk to.  It can be scary when you don't know where to go and cannot figure out how to follow the map.  And it can be quite overwhelming trying to even PLAN what to do, when there are so many options. But the feeling of being in a completely foreign city, alone, with just a backpack and camera, no set plans or agenda to follow: this is one of the most liberating feelings I have felt.  Meeting new people is terribly exciting for me.  And having that alone time to just sit and think, to watch people and not feel obligated to entertain anybody: absolutely freeing. Aside from skiing, being up to your knees in powder with the sun shining; traveling and seeing new places is my absolute favorite!

As I am writing this, I'm in Stockholm for the weekend visiting a friend. It snowed today, so I am very happy! So anyhoo, there's probably a few grammatical mistakes (sorry Mom) and I have more pictures/better pictures. But for now, I wanted to get it all written down before I forget all the reasons why Budapest was awesome!

Happy Easter!

Well, that was quite an untraditional Easter I celebrated this weekend.  While most of my peers took off to travel this week since we are on spring break until next Sunday, I decided to stay in Spain for the weekend to check out "Semana Santa" (Holy Week), and see what Easter would be like here.  From Monday through Sunday, there were at least 2 parades scheduled every day, and I didn't want to miss a thing.  The first parade I caught was unplanned; out with my friends Saturday night (?), we were standing outside a bar chatting when we saw a slow moving hoard of people dressed in white robes with red sashes silently make their way through the late night streets of Salamanca. It must have been around 3 in the morning, so needless to say, us foreigners were quite surprised and taken aback.  At the end of the line, a life-sized statue of Jesus atop a candle-lit bed was carried by at least 40 of these strange looking people.  We all thought to ourselves, or at least I did, surly this would never happen in America!

"Capirote" is the name of the pointy hats traditionally worn during Easter. Easily mistaken for "KKK" members, there is in fact no connection between this religions tradition and the American group.  The strange, pointy looking hats worn during Easter are actually very creepy looking, as the whole face is hidden except for the eyes.

A photo taken by my roommate Lindsey during the late-night procession

Ironically, most of the parades later in the week were cancelled due to bad weather.  My host mom explained to me that during Easter week, this usually happens.  Well, determined to experience the culture of Easter here, I went out in the rain on Friday evening to see the "best" Easter parade.  Scheduled to start at midnight, I stood outside in the rain, camera in hand, outside the cathedral for 45 minutes waiting with the crowd, dripping wet from the steady rain.  Well, 1 am rolled around, and still nothing.  And yet people still waited.  As soon as the rain let up, the parade would start, so people stayed.  Wet, cold, and sick of standing around with puddles in my shoes, I left after an hour, disappointed I didn't see any parade.

Crowds of umbrella line the streets of Salamanca, patiently waiting

Trying to get inside the Cathedral to see the decorations within

The Plaza Mayor, decorated all week with Eater banners

Surprisingly, my host parents did not go to any parades.  They did not even to go church on Easter Sunday.  No special meals were cooked, and life went on like always.  I try not to be judgmental, because I have learned that is one of the worst mistakes you can make in life, especially when traveling.  It's just that I find it quite ironic! I mean, the only decorations in their house are Jesus-realted!  So, this is something I will never fully understand.

Easter Sunday was quite anticlimactic, I am sad to say.  And yet...it was one of my favorite days in Salamanca so far.  For brunch (well, really lunch), I made pancakes and French Toast for my friends who live in an apartment complex near my apartment.  Of course, I had to share with them my Vermont maple syrup! Which, of course, is the best food in the whole wide world.  As it was the first sunny day in about a week, we spent the rest of the day at a park, playing catch on the grass and enjoying the sunshine and company of friends.  Maybe I didn't go to a traditional church service, see a fancy parade, or eat a huge delicious out meal as I would have in America, but  I was with my friends and we enjoyed the day and each others company, and really, that is all that I could have asked for.   It was one of those days that I never wanted to end; it was simple, unplanned....one of those memories that surly will make me nostalgic for this city someday soon.  

But that is in the future! And I do not want to dwell any longer. Right now, I'm in the bus station waiting to catch a bus to Madrid, and then tonight I am off to Budapest! Another adventure awaits!

Travel Essentials

Packing for my spring break trip next week, I realized I've got this whole "living out of a backpack" thing down to a science.  My first "Euro trip" was to Portugal with ISA; my bag was packed with way too many clothes, and of course, I brought a huge purse.  Mistake! I was weighed down the whole weekend with too much STUFF.  Since then, I have learned.  LESS IS MORE!  


What I always travel with:

• TOOTHBRUSH + TOOTHPASTE: you would be surprised how easy this is to forget, and how much of a hassle it can be to buy a new one. Without a toothbrush, your day can be absolutely miserable! 
• Quick dry towel: you mean you want to charge me 5 euros to rent a ratty, worn towel? No thank you! I would rather spend my money on food, postcards, etc! Mine cost about $20 back in the states. Worth it.
• Silk sleeping bag: Common complaints when traveling: “you mean it’s another 5 euros to rent sheets?” Or, “are these seriously the linens I am supposed to sleep on tonight?” Save yourself the drama and bring your own sheets. You would be surprised at much more “at home” you can feel when you are in your own sheets. Mine rolls up and is no bigger than a pair of socks. Definitely worth the $30 I spent on in back in the states.
• Chapstick: nothing is more annoying than having to spend your money on another lip balm when you know you have, like, 5 more back at home somewhere. Plus I always get chappped lips when I'm flying in airplanes. It's weird, I know.
• A small journal: for when I am bored, inspired, lost and need to write down directions, and it’s fun to look back and read. You can take as many pictures as you want, but it's not the same as the written word.  Even if you're tired and really want to go to bed, be sure to scribble down a few words about what you saw that day.
• Clean socks and underwear: I have gone 3 days wearing the exact same pants, shirt and sweater. Because who wants to pay the 50 euro fee to check your bag? NOT ME! (I’ve learned that the hard way…). But you should never forfeit clean socks and underwear or you will feel gross! 
• A small sewing kit: because how annoying is it to have a missing button, ripped leggings? Plus it’s so small, it hardly takes up any space. If you don't know how to sew, learn. It's quite easy.
• I ALWAYS forget this, and always kick myself for forgetting: FLIP FLOPS. Most hostel floors are pretty grimy. Especially the same-gender communal showers. Save yourself the worry and bring a pair of plastic shower shoes for peace of mind. 
• Your passport. Seems like a no-brainer. Do you know how horrible it is to make it all the way to the Madrid-airport only to realize that special little document is still sitting at home on your desk? And guess what, the airline company is not going to make any exceptions. So my poor friend Adam missed his flight to Dublin last October and spent the weekend kicking himself.
• My ipod:  I am a child of a generation dependent on technology and the internet. BI hate that sometimes.  ut it has seriously helped me figure out directions, find forgotten phone numbers; it's a place I can write down addresses and names, I can play games, listen to music. It's great.  And much lighter than my laptop!  
• Earplugs and an eyemask: Because I guarantee there will be a crying baby on your flight when all you want to do is sleep; there will be somebody that snores loudly in your hostel; most likely "that guy" will turn on the lights at 2am because he can't find his toothbrush and when he forgets to turn off the lights, you will want to strangle him.  Take care of yourself. Who cares if you look like a diva, you are well rested!
• A sense of ADVENTURE: be willing to get lost, laugh at yourself, and meet new people. The best memories I have from traveling were unplanned and unpredictable. Be smart, but don’t stay locked up in the hotel all weekend on facebook! That's lame.

What I avoid traveling with:

• My computer. Because it is HEAVY and takes up space, plus I hate leaving it in the hostel when I'm out exploring.   But let's be honset: about 50% of the time I take it with me for connivence sake.  
• More than one sweater/jacket. They take up way too much space!
• Excess shoes. Because like sweaters, they take up too much space!
• Boring people. Debbie Downers. Negative Nancy's. People that WHINE.  Just leave 'em back home or at the hostel and go off and enjoy! Do not let somebody ruin your potentially once-in-a-lifetime weekend!

If you think you need more than what can fit into a backpack, you might want to reconsider how you live your life!

Me and my trusty backpack in Italy for the weekend

It is a "hedonistic debauched lifestyle"

I love interviewing people and asking them questions. I'm a pretty good listener, if you ask me.  If I could go back and do it again, I might have chosen to be a journalist, a writer, a filmmaker. But it's never too late, right?  Well, a few nights ago I brought out a small hand-held camera and went around asking people what their favorite part about Salamanca was, why they chose to study here, and how they would describe their experience so far.

My favorite response, and I think most honest response, was from my friend Rob, who teaches English classes at a local school.  He said we are living a "hedonistic debauched lifestyle." I had to look up what these words meant, and here is what I found (according to the dictionary on my Mac).

• Hedonistic (adj): the pursuit of pleasure; sensual self-indulgence.
• The ethical theory that pleasure (in the sense of the satisfaction of desires) is the highest good and proper aim of human life.
• Similar words: indulgent, pleasure-seeking, sybaritic, lotus-eating,epicurean, good-time; unrestrained, intemperate,immoderate, extravagant, decadent.
• Debauched (adj): indulging in or characterized by sensual pleasure to a degree percieved to be morally harmful; dissolute: a debauched lifestyle. 
• Similar words: dissolute,dissipated, degenerate, corrupt, depraved, sinful, unprincipled, immoral; lascivious, lecherous, lewd, lustful, libidinous, licentious, promiscuous, loose,wanton, abandoned; decadent, profligate,intemperate, sybaritic. ANTONYMS wholesome.

That we are living morally harmful lives of self-indulgence is a bit extreme.  But in a way, it's right on.  This year abroad is for me to learn Spanish; it is a year to travel and see Europe; it is a year to figure out what I want to do after I graduate from DU in a year.  That is hedonistic, if you ask me.  Completely selfish and self-fulfilling, I have stopped feeling "guilty" about not living a productive, hard-working lifestyle as I did back in Denver because I realize that --THIS IS TEMPORARY-- and soon enough this year will be like a dream, a memory, behind me.  And I am hard working in other ways, to be fair.  But I will leave here on May 18 and end this chapter in my life, and I will not have any regrets.  

That our experiences and our lives here are defined as "debauched" has a negative, critical connotation.  Sinful, corrupt, lewd: we are young, we are independent, we are free.  And man, we are living it up while we can.  We are all fighting to figure out who we are, what we want to be, where we want to go, how we want to live our one and precious life. So we make mistakes, we stay up too late, and do things we probably shouldn't do. We are self-destructive, but when we hit rock bottom that's when we figure out who we really are.  


So maybe it's a hedonistic debauched lifestyle, but I'm learning, I'm growing, I'm living, and I'm happy.

Paris with Lauren, November 2011